five-steps skin-care

For more than 25 years, Paula Begoun has studied, analyzed, tested, and critiqued thousands of skin-care formulations and makeup products to help women around the world understand whether a product was worth the money or could live up to the claims on the label. Paula's exhaustive research and quest for high quality, reasonably priced products led her to develop her own premier product line of skin care and makeup products. Working with a team of cosmetic chemists utilizing her own formulations, Paula launched Paula's Choice in 1995.

Designed using state-of-the-art ingredients and formulary concepts, Paula's Choice skin care products DO NOT contain coloring agents, fragrance, or irritating ingredients that are extraneous or unnecessary.

Paula is dedicated to only using ingredients that have proven benefit for skin. As Paula says "Media-hyped, unproven ingredients may get attention but they don't always help skin."


Simple Steps for Beautiful Skin

Paula's distinctive philosophy about how to best take care of skin is outlined in the step-by-step process below:

Step 1 (AM & PM) – Cleanse
Use a Paula's Choice water-soluble cleanser to GENTLY remove make-up, oil, and dead skin cells from your face. Paula's Choice gentle cleansers prevent breakouts, reduce dryness and irritation and keep your skin looking healthy and radiant from the very start of your skin care regimen.

You can also use Paula's Choice Gentle Touch Make-up Remover to remove stubborn eye makeup, stay-put foundation, and waterproof mascara.


Step 2 (AM & PM) – Tone
Toners help remove last traces of makeup, soothe skin and lightly moisturize. All Paula's Choice toners deliver protective antioxidants, skin identical and cell-communicating ingredients which is rare for this category. These toners provide an extra dose of what skin needs to function optimally and look its best.


Step 3 (AM & PM) – Exfoliate ( Alpha Hydroxy Acid-AHA; and Beta Hydroxy Acids-BHA)
A gentle exfoliant makes a dramatic difference in the skin's appearance, feel, and function. Exfoliation removes built-up layers of skin that aren't shedding on their own due to sun damage, age, hormonal changes, chronic dry or oily skin, genetics or the use of poorly formulated skin care products. There is a great deal of research indicating that AHA and BHAs increase collagen production and smooth the surface of skin dramatically.

Paula's Choice offers multiple textures of Beta Hydroxy Acid for all skin types. Beta Hydroxy Acid exfoliates inside the pore to improve how the pore functions. Additionally, BHAs have anti-bacterial properties that attack blemish-causing bacteria so they are highly recommended for skin that is prone to blemishes or blackheads. Paula's Choice 8% Alpha Hydroxy Acid Gel uses glycolic acid and is best suited for normal to dry skin. It can take some experimentation to find the right exfoliant for your skin type.


Step 4 (AM & PM) – Treat (Antioxidant Serums)
Antioxidants defend your skin against the harmful effects of environmental free radicals which come from sun damage, pollution, and the very air we breathe and is essential for any product to help battle wrinkles. There is a tremendous amount of research that indicates that antioxidants are one of the best ways for making your skin look and act younger. Antioxidants can also help skin heal, create new collagen, produce healthier skin cells, and improve skin's resilience. All Paula's Choice antioxidant serums are formulated for use around the eyes as well as the face and neck.


Step 5 (AM) – Protect (Daytime Moisturizer with Sunscreen)
For daytime, the final step in your skin care routine should be applying a moisturizer that offers broad spectrum UVA protection of SPF 15 or higher (unless your foundation provides this same protection). Wearing sunscreen 365 days a year is the best way to protect your skin. All Paula's Choice daytime moisturizers are formulated to be used around the eye area as well as the face. A well formulated sunscreen used daily is the critical step in preventing wrinkles.


Step 5 (PM) – Nighttime Moisturizer
The only thing that differentiates a daytime moisturizer from a nighttime moisturizer is sunscreen. Skin needs the same beneficial state-of-the-art ingredients during the day as it does at night. All skin types need the same advanced ingredients to optimize healthy, normal cell, collagen, and immune defense production. What differs, depending on your skin type, is the texture of the product you choose. If you have normal to dry skin, a lotion or creamy lotion texture is best. If you have normal to oily skin, a gel or toner texture is ideal.

All Paula's Choice moisturizers are loaded with skin-essential ingredients such as antioxidants, cell-communicating and skin-identical ingredients and they come in a variety of consistencies-gels, lotions, creams, and gel-creams so you can find the one that works for your skin type and personal preferences. All of Paula's Choice moisturizers are formulated to be used around the eye area as well as the face so an additional eye cream is not necessary.


Step 6 (Optional) - Masks
For the occasional or daily splurge you can treat yourself to the benefits of using a mask. Whether you want an oil-absorbing, purifying mask for oily/combination skin (Skin Balancing Carbon Mask) or luxuriously rich treatment for normal to very dry skin (Skin Recovery Hydrating Treatment Mask), our unique options provide beautiful results and perfectly enhance your daily skin-care routine.

All Paula's Choice masks are gentle, fragrance-free and contain soothing anti-inflammatory agents to help reduce redness and irritation.

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Ready for Your Close Up?: Makeup Tips for Photos & Big Events

Whether getting ready for your wedding day or another momentous occasion, the following tips and reminders will ensure that you look beautiful in person and in photographs:
Keep in mind that regardless of the product, shade, or application technique, makeup is only as good as the skin it covers. Take time in the months leading up to the big day to treat your skin well and avoid using products that cause irritation or can cause side effects such as dryness, flaking, or redness. Anticipate your skin's needs based on its history and the weather (is the event in a location where it will be more humid, arid, or cold than your skin is used to?) then choose products accordingly.
Do not have a facial, microdermabrasion, peel, or any other spa or dermatologist treatment within two weeks of the event, especially if you have not had such procedures performed in the past. The last thing you want to deal with is the complications that could result. If a trip to the spa is part of your bridal bliss, use the time to get a stress-relieving massage or manicure and pedicure rather than a facial.
Anticipate being photographed and take into account the lighting. Outdoor wedding photos demand different makeup than indoor photos. Outdoor lighting is most flattering in late afternoon as the sun begins to set. If possible, avoid scheduling an outdoor wedding ceremony and photos for midday when the sun is directly overhead. This casts unwanted shadows on your face and is universally unflattering. Less makeup is preferred for outdoor weddings. Use a sheer, satin-matte foundation, a light dusting of pressed powder, powder blush, soft eyeshadow colors that are matte or barely shiny, and eyeliner that is dark brown or slate gray rather than black, which can look too harsh in daylight. Lips can be any color, but keep in mind that opaque lipstick with sheer makeup can look too contrasting. Generally, outdoor makeup looks best with creamy lipsticks. For mascara, choose brown if you have blonde hair (dyed or not). All other hair colors should stick with black mascara, preferably waterproof unless you're sure you won't cry!
For indoor ceremonies, you must take flash photography into consideration. A camera's flash tends to emphasize pink or ruddy skin tones, so proper camouflage with a neutral- to yellow-toned foundation is a must. Avoid foundations and powders with sunscreens in which titanium dioxide or zinc oxide are the active ingredients. Both of these mineral pigments have an opaque, reflective quality that can make your face look whiter than the neck in photos. A small amount of titanium dioxide in your foundation or powder is fine; it just shouldn't be an active ingredient where the concentration is considerably higher.
Be sure your foundation matches your skin color exactly. Check to be sure there is no line of demarcation at the jaw, hairline, and temples. In general, liquid foundations with a soft matte finish work best because they are versatile and let your natural skin tone show through. Cream-to-powder and stick foundations tend to offer heavier coverage that, unless carefully blended, can look mask-like. It may be tempting, but do not mix a liquid shimmer product with your foundation to make skin look more radiant. In photos, even when used judiciously, shimmer can make skin look slick and greasy instead of luminescent, especially after wearing it for a few hours. And once the event begins, stealing away for touch-ups is unlikely.
Seek a powder that closely matches your skin tone. Pressed powder is more portable and easier to use than the loose version. Look for a pressed powder with a silky texture and skin-like finish. Today's modern powder formulas (particularly those from Estee Lauder, L'Oreal, M.A.C., Prescriptives, and Maybelline) make skin look beautifully polished, not powdered or ultra-matte. Apply the powder with a professional brush, not a puff or sponge. If you have normal to dry skin, only powder the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) and leave the cheeks with the soft matte finish your foundation provides.
For blush, powder formulas tend to photograph best and hold up over the long haul. If in doubt about which shade to choose, opt for those in the rose or pink family if you have fair to medium skin and choose rosy-plum tones if your skin tone is medium to tan. Do not make the mistake of under-applying blush, especially for indoor photos. Wedding makeup is formal, and requires more color than you may normally wear. Make sure your blush is in the same tonal family as your lipstick (for example, pair a pink blush with a pink, berry, or rose-toned lipstick).
The color of your makeup design should come from your blush and lipstick, not your eyeshadow. Keep tones muted and matte so that they emphasize, not compete with, your natural eye color. As a general rule, you can't go wrong with eyeshadow colors that have a brown, tan, taupe, or neutral base. Think earth tones (slate, shell pink, bronze) and "food" tones (cream, caramel, coffee). If you want to add a touch of shimmer to your eye makeup, find the sheerest product possible, apply sparingly to highlight your brow bone or the inner corners of your eyes, and make sure you like how it looks in photos before the big day arrives.
Pay attention to your eyebrows. Do not attempt any new tweezing techniques or patterns, but do see a professional brow groomer who has loads of experience shaping brows so they frame your eyes as attractively as possible. A brow pro can also show you how to make the most of sparse, thin, or barely-there eyebrows. For wedding makeup, use brow powder, a matte powder eyeshadow, or tinted brow gel rather than traditional brow pencil to shape and define.
Be sure to carry your lipstick and lip liner with you for touch-ups after the ceremony and before the reception. It is also helpful to carry a pressed powder and small powder brush, as well as a clean makeup sponge in case you need to buff or smooth any aspect of your makeup, especially lipstick marks from over-zealous relatives or friends.

BOOKS:求醫不如求己

　問：我的皮膚粗糙，愛起疙瘩，是何原因？ 答：主要是肺的功能虛弱。　　問：我的皮膚沒有光澤，臉色蒼白，是何原因？ 答：主要是心的功能虛弱。　　
問：我的皮膚總像沒洗乾淨，蒙了一層灰塵一樣，還在太陽穴附近莫名其妙地長出暗斑來，是何原因？ 答：是肝膽郁結造成的。　　
問：我的皮膚老是起膿皰，用手一擠便成了麻坑，不擠就永不消失，是何原因？ 答：是痰濕流注造成的。　　
問：我頭髮一掉一大把，枯乾沒有光澤，是何原因？ 答：那是腎氣虛弱造成的。　　
以上的界定是強調各臟腑與皮膚毛髮的對應關係，切不要機械地去一一對應，因為沒有哪一個臟腑會獨強獨弱，它們都是互相牽制，協同合作，一損俱損，一榮俱榮。　　
在中醫的理論中，肺與皮膚關係最為密切，"肺主皮毛，司毛孔之開合"。我們知道，皮膚每天代謝的廢物要經過毛孔排汗而出。如果毛孔開合的功能失調，廢物沉積在毛孔中，那麼皮膚就會粗糙沒有彈性，堵塞嚴重便會長出疹子疙瘩來，所以要想皮膚好，肺的功能一定要加強。　　
心臟功能不好，最主要的就是影響面部的氣色。心臟供血不足就會面色蒼白，心血管瘀阻就會使面部顏色不均且隱隱發黑。所以，想要面色紅潤有光澤，一定要改善心臟的功能。　　
肝膽郁結，也叫肝郁氣滯，通常是生氣、憂慮、恐懼等因素造成的。其危害最大，是美容的大敵。它會令天生麗質的女士過早地長斑，而且來勢洶洶，同時伴隨著月經和乳腺等問題，有時還有劇烈的偏頭痛。"百病從氣生"，為了美麗，勸你一定要自娛自樂，遠離憂愁、恐懼與憤怒。　　
還有一個影響美容的因素，那就是腎氣的虛弱。腎乃先天之本，是人體能量的源泉。一旦虛損，好比房屋的根基動搖，將出現頭髮乾枯脫落、牙齒鬆動、牙齦腫脹、頭暈耳鳴、腰酸腿軟等一派衰老之象，美容便無從談起了。　　
有的人皮膚上總愛起膿皰，這是痰濕流注肌表所致，"脾是生痰之源，肺是儲痰之器"，痰濕產生的根源在於脾胃功能失調。　　人的"面子"問題何其重大，愛美之心何其尊貴！美容真是關乎一個人的生命，尤其是女性，這似乎是天性使然。如果美麗能夠成為大家追求健康的動力，我很樂意助你一臂之力。　　

我野會跟你一樣厲害的

Paula Begoun
Paula Choice

“容光煥發”按摩法--蠻有效的呢

按摩能使人“容光煥發”。因為按摩點穴可以促進血液循環，使皮膚裡的毛細血管擴張，增進新陳代謝；此外還能調節人體中樞神經系統，解除肌肉痙攣，消除疲勞。有些人由於經常做這種按摩，皮膚就顯得很光滑，皺紋也顯得少，不愛長粉刺，面色紅潤，肌肉也顯得彈性較強。這種美容作用是一般化妝品起不到的。
下面向你介紹操作很簡便的“容光煥發”按摩操：
第一節：先用兩手搓臉，從下巴頦搓到頭頂，再從頭頂搓到耳朵根，從脖子再轉回到下巴頦。這樣搓上十幾遍就行了。這在保健按摩中叫“乾浴面”。
第二節：用兩手中指按住兩個內眼角邊的小坑，就是眼角緊靠鼻梁的地方，也就是眼明穴，按住以後揉兩分鐘。
然後再用中指按揉四白穴，就是離下眼眶二指、臉蛋中間的地方，手指慢慢轉著揉兩分鐘。
第三節：擦眼皮和揪眼皮。先把拇指彎曲，用其他四指握住拇指尖，然後用拇指的背面輕輕地擦兩眼上眼皮。擦十幾次後，用手捏住眼皮，往外輕輕地揪三到五次。
第四節：掐合谷穴。合谷穴在拇指和食指中間，也就是在虎口上，每次按掐須有酸脹的感覺。先用右手掐左手上的合谷穴，然後兩手調換，每次掐一分鐘。
第五節：先使勁搓手心，搓熱了再放在臉上用力快搓二三十次，這叫擦搓顏面部。
第六節：搓腎腧穴，就是兩手按著後腰眼靠近脊椎骨的地方，用力地反覆搓動。
以上按摩法，每日兩次，時間自便。

護足全攻略 搶救醜腳丫 去角質、加強滋潤 一步步找回美麗

更新日期：2007/11/15 09:27 　有一張漂亮的臉，卻有一雙乾裂的「醜腳丫」，非常破壞畫面，全身保養中最易被忽略的就是足部護理，屈臣氏城中店藥師黃崇博表示，避免腳跟乾燥龜裂，記得兩大口訣，「每周2～3次去角質，加強保溼和滋潤」，沒有其他妙招！
　提案1　先去角質　
step1用溫水泡腳15分鐘，軟化角質。　
step2用磨腳皮器刮除死皮。　
step3擦龜裂霜滋潤保溼。　
step4噴除腳臭噴霧，去除異味保芳香。　
提案2　勤擦滋潤霜　
最簡單的護理方法就是洗完澡擦滋潤霜，腳底、腳側是重點部位，有龜裂處特別加強，黃崇博提醒，不穿涼鞋的冬天，磨腳皮也要勤快，足部肌膚光滑，保養品才易吸收。若有紅腫、發癢抓出傷口，用足部專用修護凝膠在傷口形成防水透氣保護膜，助傷口癒合後再保養，推薦單品有5類：　
軟化角質：　Missha生薑足部舒緩去角質霜，含抗菌效果的生薑萃取物，尿素和甜菜鹼可使足部光滑，檸檬馬鞭草可去異味，150ml，315元。
就醫。　
龜裂護理：　Burt’s Bees椰子腳部修護霜，含橄欖油、燕麥蛋白、椰子油、薄荷、迷迭香，123g，450元。　
優姿腳跟龜裂膏，含天然植物萃取精華、異構糖，保溼滋潤，50g，299元。　滋潤舒緩：　珊蕾雅金玫瑰左旋C手足精華霜，萃取植物美白精華成分，左旋維他命融合熊果素，可促進膠蛋原白增生，200ml，259元。　
去除異味：　DR. Science香腳ㄚ噴霧，運用生物科技專利除臭配方，含複方精油，50ml，299元。　
傷口護理：　3M龜裂修護凝膠，含特殊配方將傷口密封式處理隔絕疼痛，維他命C、E和天然茶樹精油，修護滋潤，5ml，419元。　
SOS 特殊護理　
長時間穿鞋腳縫出汗，細菌、黴菌感染發癢脫皮，得香港腳和溼疹，在冬天也容易發生。黃崇博建議用爽足粉抑制出汗，減少細菌孳生、改善異味，有香港腳和溼疹時，用抗黴菌產品和專用藥膏改善，但情況嚴重仍需就醫。SOS特殊護理單品有：　爽健止汗除臭腳粉，有殺菌功能，75g，195元。　
療黴舒噴劑，含Terbinafine殺菌配方，對香港腳有效，30ml，500元。　
治黴舒乳膏，Terbinafine成分有殺黴作用，10g，249元。　
膚潤康親水軟膏，溼疹有效，10g，199元。　
益可膚軟膏，水溶性，專用黴菌等引起的發炎，16g，159元。

秋冬保濕大不易

更新日期:2007/11/21 11:00 記者:周琪霏／整理報導
肌膚「保濕需求」的緩急，與「環境濕度」的高低，有絕對關係。氣候乾不乾燥，可以從髮膚的變化觀察得知，也可以從居家事物的變化來判斷。早晨醒來更衣時，觀察一下小腿的角質是否像雪花般抖落？是的話，那這肯定是乾燥低濕度的一天。走在路上，看到的路人頭髮盡是因衣物靜電而飛舞毛燥，顯然這時戶外環境也是過度乾燥的。濕度低的時候，保養時，保濕就得加碼。
秋天，皮脂分泌減少，封水膜有了破洞，所以，保濕產品可以選擇具有稠度的保濕化妝水或保濕凍膠（凝膠類），有稠度的膠質具有較好的抓水能力。相同的道理，玻尿酸、膠原蛋白、多醣類等大分子的保濕成分，秋天用來保濕打底，比仲夏適合多了。
早上洗臉後，先用水性高效保濕品打底，再擦上帶油脂的乳霜，選擇夏天用的低／無油粉底液（粉底乳或粉霜），即完成打底妝的程序。非必要，不要在完成底妝時再繼續撲上蜜粉、散粉。
等白天溫度升高，臉部自然出油後，先用吸油面紙吸去多餘的油脂後，依需要再補上薄薄的一層蜜粉，維持細緻的妝感。若出門前，就撲上蜜粉，蜜粉會在皮脂腺還未出油前，就搶先一步吸走保濕產品的水分。角質若沒有機會充分地保有這些水分，等到時間拉長了皮膚自己出油時，又繼續補妝，這會讓皮膚顯得更乾燥、藏不住皺紋。
選擇夏天用的粉底液，是因為粉底「液（乳）」類的產品，本身吸含較多的油脂與其他基劑，不會立刻與皮膚搶水分。不泛油光的夏季粉底液，在秋天使用，不撲蜜粉，會顯得貼膚、自然、保濕。
身體保濕乳，提供的不外乎油性保濕成分與水性保濕成分。怕油膩的人，更要把握剛洗完澡，皮膚角質水分最高的黃金期，擦上保濕乳液。這時候，才可以擦得薄、舒服又有最佳的保濕效果。等皮膚乾了才擦（像是白天再補擦），效果就沒有洗完澡時來得好。
冬季容易乾癢的肌膚，最好提前在秋天開始做身體保濕，一旦開始「抓癢」再來擦，時間上晚了些，得同時擦藥膏治療了。若已經抓破皮的肌膚，建議過渡期只使用植物油（或嬰兒油）。在剛洗完澡時，身體水分不擦乾的情況下，擦上薄薄一層油脂保濕就好。這個時候，不要用「乳液、乳霜」類保濕品，減少乳化劑、基劑、防腐劑等刺激，破皮處才會好得快。

眼周長出的小肉芽，與化妝品無關聯

汗管瘤好發於眼圈，但也可擴展到臉頰部位，由於外觀呈肉色，或僅有微紅，美容界往往稱這些肉色突起為「肉芽」，但一些息肉〈垂疣〉，也是肉色，也會被稱為肉芽。
一般而言，並不會有不舒服的感覺，表面也不會有脫皮或粗糙現象。女性得到的機會較男性為高，出現的時間約在青春期，之後逐漸增加；另外有些會長在特殊部位如女陰、四肢末梢。也有所謂「發疹性汗管瘤」，數目可上百，好發在前胸、腹部，一般顏色較深。
一旦形成後，汗管瘤的大小變化不大，但在天熱出汗時有時會較為明顯。汗管瘤成因上，多數並不清楚，但與化妝品的使用並無關聯，一般與遺傳體質也無關，汗管瘤與正常汗腺並不相通，可能是發育過程中殘存的汗腺胚細胞增生而引起。在唐氏症，有較高的汗管瘤罹患率。
蔡呈芳 醫師表示由於汗管瘤是良性的，也無不適症狀，在處理上一般是基於美容考量，健保不給付，除非偶爾基於診斷需要而切片。目前最常用的是雷射處理，以二氧化碳或鉺—雅克雷射將病灶逐一燒除。由於汗管瘤存在的位置是在真皮內，因此雷射燒除的目的，是在改善外觀，而非完全去除汗管瘤。
一般在處理上會將皮膚燒灼至輕微凹陷，等待日後皮膚自行結疤復原而達到外觀的改善，但如果燒灼太深，容易形成永久凹陷的坑洞及色素缺失，太淺，則復發性太高，因此深淺之間拿捏需要專業的判斷。至於其他的方式，如傳統電燒、手術逐一切除或冷凍治療，則較罕採用；而在藥物治療方面，口服維生素Ａ酸Roaccutane〈羅可坦〉，或外用維生素Ａ酸〈tretinoin〉也可能有效，但一般需持續使用，較不方便。

BOOKS:看健康寫在臉上

這本該買該買

內容簡介
1.你知道身體在疾病發生前，會透過臉部向你發出警告訊號嗎？其實你只要每天花3分鐘來好好觀察臉部五官的不正常變化，就能有效預防重大疾病的發生！
2.鑽研中、西醫學長達四十餘年的作者，希望透過這本有系統整合中醫學經驗與西醫學概念的健康叢書，教導讀者從書中簡單易懂的健康自我檢測表，來觀察臉部的不正常變化。
3.本書除了完整收錄臉部五官最常見的77種小症狀與病因分析外，並教導讀者積極透過生活習慣、飲食調養等方法來遠離隱藏的健康危機，做好個人的健康管理。
　　相信你一定很在意臉上突然出現的黯沉、皺紋或痘子吧！千萬別輕忽這些看似不起眼的臉部小症狀，其實是內臟在向你發出求救訊號。
　　本書是以中醫學觀點為主，西醫的概念為輔，教你輕鬆做好健康管理。只要依循書中的體質檢視法則，每天花3分鐘好好觀察自己的臉部變化，就能及早發現內臟的疾病徵候，及時從生活作息、飲食習慣、運動、中藥方劑來改善失調、回復身體平衡，預防重大疾病的發生。
作者簡介
□越恭也　　東京藥科大學畢業。目前擔任東京藥科大學、明海大學齒科臨床研究所兼職講師，以及中國長春中醫學院教授、朝日文化中心講師等職務。作者除了致力於指導、提攜後輩，同時也期望透過個人著作及演說，將中醫學普及到一般家庭的日常保健觀念之中。
詳細資料top
叢書系列：三采健康館系列
規格：平裝 / 216頁 / 15*21cm / 普級 / 全彩印刷 / 初
出版地：台灣

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